I actually tried to "recreate" the seeming accuracy I had from some previous Lego guns (oh and I remember that it was no muzzzleloader with the increased accuracy but the fat 4x4 cartridge) and noticed that it won't be thaaaat possible because of certain part and space limitations... Simply sucks ass, I know. However, I combined the "old new" cartridge with the "new" cartridge and got a new one, for this really the only "new" one, I assure you! It has still some accuracy problems, but who cares if I'll only shoot targets 8 or 6 meters away. Really, If I'd want pinpoint accuracy, I'd probably create streamlined arrows and a muzzleloader for it so that I can include a bigger rubber band and so on. I guess I'll simply to create one one day for exactly this reason... Whatever! I'll once again start creating the hammer/trigger component for the new gun and add the barrel, grip and so on later. Good to know that I got some ideas for reliable, trigger-independent hammering during that 180° hammer experiment! Trigger indepency hereby means that independently from how slow or fast you pull the trigger, the hammer will always strike the same. Usually I'd say this is normal, but my first hammer (thus the one from the last model) wasn't really thaaat normal and kinda wrong. So it makes perfectly that don't even want to take pictures of it anymore... Whatever.
What I'm NOT sure about is what chambering method to choose. Sure, I wanted to stay close to the original version, but the break-action has certain tolerance in it's barrel angle that I don't really want to have the chamber movable at all. Sliding the barrel tops/sides is possible but requires a lot more room or instable ideas. Another idea is to rotate the chambers from the business end (maybe individually?) and thus be able to take the cartridges out after using a lever to bring them up. This would mimic the same comfort of a break-action with the addition of not needing to move the gun when reloading (nice thing I think). It simply requires a skeleton for each barrel as part of the gun's body itself. I like the concept and believe it's doable while having all the stability of a Lego gun not loaded via breech. There's also a third version for a break-action that locks by using long axels that will additionally slide into holes made for those. This is the version I would prefer when goin back to break action because it would certainly give less tolerance to the overall thing. I have to do some more research on this but I assure you that atleast the "rotation break-action" will find it's way to me if I don't find anything else better suited or a way to make the break-action highly stable. Really, why do I always bother with this break-action... As if it were the only real thing.